Oven Not Heating? Stove Acting Up? How to Fix a Broken Cooktop
Quick answer: an oven or stove that’s not heating properly almost always traces to the igniter (gas), the bake or broil element (electric), the temperature sensor, or — for cooktops specifically — a burner control switch, and each has a distinct, checkable symptom that points you to the right one.
“Oven wasn’t heating at all and one of the stovetop burners wouldn’t light either. Vlad found the igniter had failed completely for the oven, and a separate loose connection was causing the burner issue — fixed both in the same visit rather than treating them as unrelated.”
Oven Not Heating at All: Gas Models
Watch the igniter when you start a bake cycle — it should glow a strong, steady orange and ignite the burner within about 90 seconds. If it glows weakly, glows but never ignites, or doesn’t glow at all, the igniter has failed or is failing. This is the single most common cause of a gas oven not heating.
Oven Not Heating at All: Electric Models
Visually inspect the bake element for any visible break, blistering, or bulging along its length. A completely failed element usually won’t glow at all when the oven calls for heat, which is a clear visual confirmation without needing any tools.
Oven Heating Unevenly
This points more often to the temperature sensor giving an inaccurate reading than to the heating source itself — the oven may be cycling the element or burner on and off based on a false reading, creating hot and cold zones or temperature swings during a single bake. An oven thermometer left inside during a cycle helps confirm this.
Cooktop Burner Won’t Light
On gas cooktops, check that the burner cap and head are seated correctly and clear of any spilled food debris blocking the small gas ports — this alone resolves a surprising number of won’t-light complaints. If the ports are clear and it still won’t ignite, the igniter for that specific burner (cooktop burners often each have their own) may have failed.
Electric Cooktop Burner Not Heating
Try swapping the affected burner’s position with a working one if your model allows it, using the control knob for the working position — if the non-working burner works in the working slot, the burner switch has failed rather than the heating coil itself, which is a useful way to isolate the cause before calling anyone.
Check the Door Seal on the Oven
A gap in the door seal lets heat escape continuously, which can look like an uneven-heating or slow-preheat problem even when the actual heating components are fine. Run your hand around the door seam during a bake cycle to feel for escaping heat.
What’s Safe to Check Yourself
Watching the igniter glow, visually inspecting an electric element, checking burner ports for debris, and testing the door seal are all safe checks anyone can do without opening anything up. Replacing an igniter, element, or sensor typically means accessing the back or bottom panel — straightforward for a technician, more involved without familiarity with your specific model.
Why Treating Oven and Cooktop Issues Together Makes Sense
On many ranges, the oven and cooktop share some control circuitry, so a problem that seems to affect only one can sometimes point to a shared cause — worth mentioning both symptoms together when describing the issue, even if only one seems urgent.
When It’s Time to Call a Technician
If you’ve confirmed the igniter or element visually and it looks fine but the oven still isn’t heating, or if you’re not comfortable testing components near gas or line-voltage electrical connections, that’s the right point to book a diagnostic visit rather than continue guessing.
Convection Ovens: One Extra Thing to Check
If your oven has a convection fan and it’s stopped working, you may notice uneven baking results even though the main heating element or igniter is functioning normally — the fan is what distributes heat evenly across all racks. A convection fan that’s silent when it should be running is worth mentioning specifically when describing the issue.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it safe to keep using the stovetop if only the oven isn’t working?
Usually yes, since they’re often on separate circuits or gas lines, but confirm with a technician if you’re unsure on your specific model.
How much does an igniter replacement cost?
It’s one of the more affordable oven repairs — the part itself is inexpensive, with labour depending on model accessibility.
Can a bad door seal really affect cooking results?
Yes — escaping heat forces the oven to cycle the heating source more often and longer, which can affect both temperature accuracy and energy use.
My cooktop burner works in one position but not another — what does that mean?
That specifically points to a failed control switch for that burner position, not the heating element or burner itself.
Is this ever a gas supply issue rather than the appliance?
Possible but less common — worth confirming your gas supply valve is fully open before assuming an appliance component has failed.
How do I know if it’s the sensor or the element causing uneven heat?
An oven thermometer left inside during a cycle tells you the real temperature — if it swings widely while the display stays steady, that points to the sensor rather than the element.
Should I keep trying to use the oven while diagnosing this?
For a gas oven with a clearly failing igniter, it’s fine to keep trying — it just may take longer or fail to ignite occasionally. For any concern involving gas smell or electrical burning smell, stop using it and call immediately.
*Same-day service is offered whenever possible and depends on technician availability, parts, and your location within the GTA.