Dryer Error Codes: What They Mean and How to Fix Them

Why Dryers Show Error Codes

Dryers time nearly every phase of a cycle — how long it takes to reach temperature, how long airflow takes to clear moisture, whether the drum is turning freely. A code appears when one of those phases takes too long or reports an impossible reading, which is the board stopping the cycle before something worse happens, like a motor running against a jammed drum.

Codes vary by brand, but F-codes and E-codes tend to point to a specific component (a sensor, the control board, the door switch), while airflow-related codes point to something blocking exhaust rather than a failed part — which is also why airflow issues are the most DIY-fixable of the group.

Common Dryer Error Codes by Brand

These are the codes we field calls about most, each with its own full walkthrough:

• Samsung HE1 — heating circuit fault, often a blocked vent. See our HE1 guide.
• LG dE — door not confirming closed. See our dE guide.
• Whirlpool / Maytag F01 — control board self-check fault. See our F01 guide.
• GE PF — power interruption flag. See our PF guide.
• Whirlpool AF — restricted airflow. See our AF guide.
• Bosch E3 — moisture/temperature sensor fault. See our E3 guide.

Other Common Fault Codes

A few other codes come up often enough to mention even without their own full guide yet: tS / tO (Samsung) means a shorted or open temperature sensor circuit — most cases need the thermistor replaced. d80 / d90 is another airflow-restriction variant, diagnosed the same way as AF: check the lint filter, vent, and exhaust duct in that order.

Dryer Running But Not Heating — No Code Showing

Plenty of genuine dryer problems never trigger a code at all, especially on older models. If the drum turns and the timer counts down but clothes come out cold, check the lint filter and vent first — the same restriction that triggers a heating code on newer models just runs silently on older ones. If airflow is confirmed clear, the heating element itself has likely failed and needs a technician.

Unusual Dryer Noises

Grinding, squealing, or thumping usually points to worn drum bearings, a failing motor, or an object caught in the drum or blower. Stop using the dryer if the noise is loud or grinding, and check for an obvious object caught in the drum first — bearing and motor issues need professional repair.

When to Call a Professional

Stop troubleshooting and book a technician if the error code comes back after a reset, you smell burning or hear grinding/squealing, the dryer runs but never produces heat, or the drum won’t turn or turns with heavy resistance. Dryers combine high heat, a fast-spinning drum, and line voltage, so anything beyond the lint trap and vent is safest left to a certified technician.

How to Prevent Most Dryer Codes From Happening Again

Clean the lint filter before every load — not occasionally, every load — since this single habit prevents the majority of airflow and heating-related codes. Have the full exterior vent professionally cleaned about once a year, more often for long duct runs. Check that the door latch and seal are free of lint buildup, which is a common, overlooked cause of door-error codes. And avoid overloading the drum, which strains the motor and bearings over time.

What Our Technicians Check First

On most dryer calls, before opening anything up, our technicians confirm the lint filter and exterior vent are clear, check the door switch and latch, and listen for whether the drum turns freely. That sequence alone identifies the cause on a meaningful share of calls before any parts are tested.

Frequently Asked Questions